Visiting the Philippines
The idyllic archipelago is rarely at the top of the typical Western traveller's bucket list, but having paid an exciting visit to 3 of the islands, I can safely state that it is well worth a look at. The country, which has a staggeringly high population of approximately 100 million people, offers picture-perfect beaches for prices that often compare favourably to the more developed destinations of Thailand or Malaysia. Not only is the country kind to the wallet, but it also suffers less from the modern plague of over-tourism. There is of course one notable exception to this - the island of Borocay, which was famously closed in 2018 to visitors due to the massive overcrowding. When I visited, in Christmas 2018, I managed to see the island just after its reopening. As I shall explain later, the opening was undoubtedly premature. Overall, my journey across the country began in the bustling metropolis of Manilla. I was then fortunate enough to visit a luxury hotel of Pangulusian Island, near the cute seaside town of El Nido. From there, I flew onto Cebu City, before taking a ferry and a bus to the backpacking hub of Alona Beach on Pangalao Island. Finally, I took in the quasi-construction site of Boracay island. Having said this, the beaches were gorgeous, and with a string on new hotel openings the island has tons of potential for 2019. Therefore, don't let my criticism put you off! From there, I returned to Manilla, connecting me back to my UK base. The trip was a great varied experience, especially as it took in the luxury end at El Nido, the (super) urban environment of Manilla, as well as the laid back and trendy beach on Panglao Island. Boracay, as mentioned, was a little disappointing, but should improve over this year.
Manila
Manila is a bustling capital region, home to approximately 1.8 million people. After visiting, it is not totally surprising that it ranks as one of the most densely populated cities on Earth. The traffic makes even the likes of LA or London seem tame. 8 lane highways are full of buses, cars and bikes. Jeepneys are a particular highlight, with the decorated open-air minibuses largely unique to the country. The traditional buses are actually a legacy of WW2, with the vehicles originally derived from surplus US military jeeps after the war. Visiting at Christmas is also recommended, with the abundance of decorations reflecting a populace that is 80% catholic (76 million people). I visited Pasay, a busy district north of the airport and south of the old city. It represents the 'real Manilla' to a greater extent than neighbouring Makati, the main financial district. Textile, electronic and shoe shops compete for space among the main roads, with traders all keen to sell their various wares. Hastily constructed malls represent a compromise between Western retail styles and traditional sole trader commerce. The loudness and organised chaos is not to everyone's taste, but it is a more stimulating experience than other more formalised/corporate Asian mega-cities. If you want a taste of the latter, Makati is your best best. As well as being the city's main financial district, it's also a cultural and entertainment hub. For shoppers, the imaginatively named 'Market Market' mall offers an air-conditioned and varied shopping experience. Western mega-brands are surprisingly underrepresented, with the lobbies filled with sole traders selling more traditional and culturally relevant goods. If you want to experience a bit more culture, head to the Ayala Museum to get your head round the nuances of Filipino art and history.
El Nido
What was once a small fishing village is now dominated by tourism. This is not to give the impression that its crowded like Borocay, but the town's reputation and main employer are the four EL Nido resorts. These are based on four of the many small islands that surround mainland El Nido. To get there, only AirSwift offers flights. The airline is a small local carrier, and offers flights to El Nido via Manila, Caticlan, Clark Bohol, Puerto Princesa and Coron. For a more backpacker experience, the best option is to stay on the El Nido island itself. The town is a very short drive from the tiny airport, and has a variety of quirky hostels. Otherwise, te region is dominated by El Nido resorts, which has 4 high end resorts : Apulit Island, Miniloc Island, Lagen Island and Pangulasian Island. The latter, Pangulasian Island, is the most luxurious, boasting 42 deluxe seaview villas along the pristine white beach. The pool area is also very well designed, although food perhaps not as creative as one would expect for the price tag. The vast array of activities mostly make up for this however. For example, the hotel unsurprisingly takes advantage of the stunning natural scenery, with the likes of kayak or snorkeling trips fantastic opportunities for lifelong memories. The scenery across the area is like something out of a Bond film, with steep and uninhabited small islands dotted across the region. Some have even called it the best island chain to visit in the world!
Alona Beach
Alona beach offers one of the more authentic and stimulating beach options. If quiet natural beauty isn't your thing, Alona beach is a more vibrant seaside option. Located in Bohol province, it is just 2 miles from the new Bohol-Pangalao airport (frequent flights to Manilla). There are a vast array of resorts, with this competition for tourists ensuring that prices arre more reasonable than the El Nido quasi-monopoly. Top of the pile is Amorita resort, a stylish, modern and minimalist 5-star resort at that overlooks the beach from the East (£210 per night). For a more reasonable beachfront luxury, Hennan Resort is a better option (£132 per night). You can also get decent cheaper hotels for just £30 per night). At Alone beach activities include lots of water sports, cute local shops and even shark whale watching (they frequently traverse the Bohol Sea).
Borocay Island
This is perhaps the most well-known tourist island in the Philippines. After being closed from April-October 2018, it is now open for business again. When I visited in January 2019, it was far from finished. Roads were being dug up all over the island, and new hotels still being patched up. However, 6 months on the situation is likely very different. Having said this, it is still likely to feel a bit dirty, overcrowded and overdeveloped. One can almost feel the influence of US/Chinese tourist capital chasing the government's PR efforts as it seeks to rebrand the island. There is an array of stunning new hotel openings, so if healthy resort time is your thing, Borocay is still a good option (especially now as, at least, signs of sewage were no longer existent). The Crimson Resort ($250 a night) is a particular highlight, with the vast stylish resort overlooking a pretty cove.
And that is my impressions of the 4 regions I visited. El Nido was a highlight for me, but that's due to its natural scenery (I key love of mine). Alona Beach was also great, and Manilla very stimulating.
Manila
Manila is a bustling capital region, home to approximately 1.8 million people. After visiting, it is not totally surprising that it ranks as one of the most densely populated cities on Earth. The traffic makes even the likes of LA or London seem tame. 8 lane highways are full of buses, cars and bikes. Jeepneys are a particular highlight, with the decorated open-air minibuses largely unique to the country. The traditional buses are actually a legacy of WW2, with the vehicles originally derived from surplus US military jeeps after the war. Visiting at Christmas is also recommended, with the abundance of decorations reflecting a populace that is 80% catholic (76 million people). I visited Pasay, a busy district north of the airport and south of the old city. It represents the 'real Manilla' to a greater extent than neighbouring Makati, the main financial district. Textile, electronic and shoe shops compete for space among the main roads, with traders all keen to sell their various wares. Hastily constructed malls represent a compromise between Western retail styles and traditional sole trader commerce. The loudness and organised chaos is not to everyone's taste, but it is a more stimulating experience than other more formalised/corporate Asian mega-cities. If you want a taste of the latter, Makati is your best best. As well as being the city's main financial district, it's also a cultural and entertainment hub. For shoppers, the imaginatively named 'Market Market' mall offers an air-conditioned and varied shopping experience. Western mega-brands are surprisingly underrepresented, with the lobbies filled with sole traders selling more traditional and culturally relevant goods. If you want to experience a bit more culture, head to the Ayala Museum to get your head round the nuances of Filipino art and history.
El Nido
What was once a small fishing village is now dominated by tourism. This is not to give the impression that its crowded like Borocay, but the town's reputation and main employer are the four EL Nido resorts. These are based on four of the many small islands that surround mainland El Nido. To get there, only AirSwift offers flights. The airline is a small local carrier, and offers flights to El Nido via Manila, Caticlan, Clark Bohol, Puerto Princesa and Coron. For a more backpacker experience, the best option is to stay on the El Nido island itself. The town is a very short drive from the tiny airport, and has a variety of quirky hostels. Otherwise, te region is dominated by El Nido resorts, which has 4 high end resorts : Apulit Island, Miniloc Island, Lagen Island and Pangulasian Island. The latter, Pangulasian Island, is the most luxurious, boasting 42 deluxe seaview villas along the pristine white beach. The pool area is also very well designed, although food perhaps not as creative as one would expect for the price tag. The vast array of activities mostly make up for this however. For example, the hotel unsurprisingly takes advantage of the stunning natural scenery, with the likes of kayak or snorkeling trips fantastic opportunities for lifelong memories. The scenery across the area is like something out of a Bond film, with steep and uninhabited small islands dotted across the region. Some have even called it the best island chain to visit in the world!
Alona Beach
Alona beach offers one of the more authentic and stimulating beach options. If quiet natural beauty isn't your thing, Alona beach is a more vibrant seaside option. Located in Bohol province, it is just 2 miles from the new Bohol-Pangalao airport (frequent flights to Manilla). There are a vast array of resorts, with this competition for tourists ensuring that prices arre more reasonable than the El Nido quasi-monopoly. Top of the pile is Amorita resort, a stylish, modern and minimalist 5-star resort at that overlooks the beach from the East (£210 per night). For a more reasonable beachfront luxury, Hennan Resort is a better option (£132 per night). You can also get decent cheaper hotels for just £30 per night). At Alone beach activities include lots of water sports, cute local shops and even shark whale watching (they frequently traverse the Bohol Sea).
Borocay Island
This is perhaps the most well-known tourist island in the Philippines. After being closed from April-October 2018, it is now open for business again. When I visited in January 2019, it was far from finished. Roads were being dug up all over the island, and new hotels still being patched up. However, 6 months on the situation is likely very different. Having said this, it is still likely to feel a bit dirty, overcrowded and overdeveloped. One can almost feel the influence of US/Chinese tourist capital chasing the government's PR efforts as it seeks to rebrand the island. There is an array of stunning new hotel openings, so if healthy resort time is your thing, Borocay is still a good option (especially now as, at least, signs of sewage were no longer existent). The Crimson Resort ($250 a night) is a particular highlight, with the vast stylish resort overlooking a pretty cove.
And that is my impressions of the 4 regions I visited. El Nido was a highlight for me, but that's due to its natural scenery (I key love of mine). Alona Beach was also great, and Manilla very stimulating.
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